Moose sightings have become passée. We passed a mother with two calves and didn't bother stopping. Later, not far from a place called Cooper Landing, we happened on a fishery opening for sockeye. The river bank was shoulder to shoulder, fly fisherman doing what is locally referred to as "combat fishing". That's when someone yells "fish on" and all the other guys with dagger eyes have to bring in their lines and salivate while they watch. It's combative when a new guy shows up and tries to weasle his way into the line. We talked with a would-be fisherman who said, "It cost me $140 for the licence, 6$ for parking and and $11 fort the Russian ferry. I decided to go buy my fish at Costco!"
Bob is becoming a little spoiled. We stopped at a roadside motel/restaurant in a place that was called "Clamshell" something. We were desperate for our mid morning coffee break. The place had handwritten, illegible signs in the parking lot and potholes like small lakes. I wasn't first inside but I understand the first reaction was horror at the visible dirt on some surfaces. Looking at the menu, which was a "greasy spoon" special, Bob said in his heavily accented Kiwi, "Oh, they don't seem to be listing their coffees!" Joan was quick to point out that only one kind of coffee came from this kind of cafe, thick, strong and probably old. The truth be told, she was right!
Homer is famous for its three mile long spit which of course has numerous campsites. We chose Homer Spit RV Park, right at the end, next to a new condo development and hotel. Everywhere is rough gravel and boulders, the sites could almost be called unimproved, but with a 20 amp power plug the owners call in $48 a night for about 100 sites. The washrooms are open 24 hours but the showers are only open from 8 to 8. You must go to the office, pay a dollar and then be "buzzed in" through the door. At 8 in the morning, when the temperature is a chilly 10º, the rush is on to get one of the four cosy showers. Thank goodness the water is hot and plentiful! We were shocked at the cost for such a rough place so we checked on another site up the spit that had smooth ground and water, sewer and cable. Smack me to bring me back to reality! They wanted $78 plus tax for their fancy parking space!
The weather turned cold. A wind blew constantly so we took periodic forays out onto the beach, dressed in several layers, to play with Blarney. Eagles are all around. Once we frightened off three that were loitering near the water's edge.
Up in town we discovered the Pratt Museum. It's filled with things of local interest and has a garden filled with indigenous plants. The gardener took us for a tour, showing off his many berries and flowers. Blarney and I explored the woods around while the others walked throught he exhibits.
The spit has a quaint and colourful row of shops and restaurants strung along a boardwalk. Busy! Many automobiles, many tourists. We had a wonderful meal looking over the small boat harbour but it took forty minutes to arrive. We checked out a bar that has made its name by having patrons autograph one dollar bills. The walls and ceilings are papered with them.
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